FROM ABUJA, WITH A STORY
By Ewere Okonta
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ewereokonta20@gmail.com
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“My knowledge of Abuja is not as deep as my knowledge of Lagos”
– Babatunde Fashola
Abuja, the heart of Nigeria, is a city that pulses with power and intrigue. Known as the Federal Capital Territory (FCT), this city is more than just a geographical location; it is the epicenter where the fate of a nation is crafted and the dreams of its people are both realized and deferred.
12th December 1991, the nation’s capital was relocated from Lagos to Abuja, a move orchestrated by the then-military president, General Ibrahim Badamasi Babangida. This transition was not just about shifting the seat of government; it was a deliberate strategy to position the capital in a more central location, a place that could serve as a unifying nexus for Nigeria’s diverse ethnic and cultural landscape. Abuja now stands as a testament to that vision, a city built on the ideals of unity and progress, yet often overshadowed by the complexities of governance and power.
At the heart of Abuja lies Aso Rock Villa, the residence of the President of Nigeria, a fortress of authority where the nation’s most critical decisions are made. This iconic location is more than just a symbol of political power; it is a place where the echoes of history reverberate through the corridors of influence.
Here, every month, the 36 state commissioners of finance converge for the Federal Allocation and Appropriation Committee (FAAC) meeting, a ritual where federal resources are allocated and the economic destiny of the states is shaped.
But Abuja is not just a city of politicians and bureaucrats; it is a mosaic of lives, a place where the powerful and the powerless coexist in an uneasy balance. The city is home to the federal ministries, where ministers and their entourages navigate the labyrinth of governance, crafting policies that will impact the nation. Yet, just a stone’s throw away from these centers of power, you find the everyday people—the political jobbers, the fixers, the praise singers, and the clowns who see Abuja as their headquarters, each playing their part in the grand theater of Nigerian politics.
Abuja is a city of contrasts. There are neighborhoods of opulence, where kings, queens, princes, and princesses reside in palatial homes, their lives seemingly untouched by the struggles that define the existence of many. Yet, within the same city, slums spread out like scars, reminders of the stark inequalities that persist despite the city’s grandeur. In Abuja, palaces and prisons stand side by side, each telling a different story about power, privilege, and the human condition.
One of the city’s most fascinating aspects is the way it juxtaposes tradition and modernity, power and vulnerability. In a place where one might expect only the rigid protocols of governance, there are moments of unexpected humor and humanity. Take, for instance, the palace of a king, where the queen, in a rare duet, beats the king hands down, a reminder that even in the corridors of power, the dynamics of life are not always what they seem.
Then there’s the Mami Market at Sanni Abacha Barrack, a place that defies expectations. Here, among the military personnel and their families, you find the largest concentration of roasted catfish and tilapia vendors, their stalls filled with the smoky aroma of fish grilled to perfection. It’s a place where orishirishi, a variety of Nigerian delicacies, are sold alongside stories of bravery and camaraderie. The market is a microcosm of Abuja itself—a blend of the ordinary and the extraordinary, where the lines between different worlds blur.
Abuja is a beautiful city for the big ballers, a playground for those who wield power and influence. But it is also a city of stories, each one as complex and multifaceted as the city itself. From the grandeur of Aso Rock to the humble stalls of Mami Market, Abuja is a place where history, culture, and politics intersect in ways that are both surprising and profound. And as you navigate its streets, you can’t help but be drawn into its story—a story that is still being written, one day at a time.
Ewere Okonta, is the CEO of EOB Media. He writes from Asokoro, Abuja, Nigeria